IN the heart of Ystradgynlais in the Swansea Valley lies an unassuming chapel which holds an important place in the religious history of Wales.

Yorath Chapel on Heol Geidd, Cwmgeidd in Ystradgynlais was initially built in 1806 according to Coflein. It was a chapel that went through a number of rebuilds, starting less than 20 years later in 1824. This rebuild came because the chapel was too small for the increasing congregation of Calvanistic Methodists.

Despite the fact the church was not built until the early 1800s, the religious activity in the area can be traced back to 1739, including the connection to the Calvanistic Methodist revival. In 1740, a sermon was preached on the yard of Ystradfawr Farm in Ystradgynlais by Howell Harris, a pioneer of the revival. It is said that the yard was a popular spot for preachers to visit.

William Williams Pantycelyn would also regularly visit the area.

The church was the first Methodist Chapel to be built in the Swansea, Amman and Dulais Valleys according to The Voice in an article about the chapel’s 150th anniversary celebrations on September 7, 1956.

Since the chapel was built, many famous names in the religious world have come through the chapel, including preachers the reverends Owen Thomas, Thomas John, Cilgerran, John Hughes, John Williams, Bryn Siencyn, Thomas Charles Williams, Matthews, Ewenny, Pulston Phillip Jones, Cynddylan Jones and Barrow Williams all occupying the pulpit at some time.

Daniel Protheroe (1866-1934) who became one of the leading figures in American-Welsh music as composer, teacher and conductor was a regular member of the congregation. He won a number of prizes in National Eisteddfods in Swansea and Merthyr Tydfil. He also conducted the Ystradgynlais choir that won at the Llandeilo Eisteddfod at just 16-years-old.

He emigrated to Scranton, Pennsylvania at the age of 19 and became a doctor of music there. He conducted the Cymmrodorian Choral Society in Scranton and several musical societies in Milwaukee. He also conducted a number of choirs in Chicago and taught in the Sherwood Music School.

On his visits to Wales, he adjudicated at National Eisteddfod’s and was conductor at Harlech Music Festival in 1931.

He also wrote a number of compositions, including being the author of Arwain Corau and Nodau Damweiniol a D’rawyd.

Author Thomas Levi (1825-1916) who founded Trysorfa y Plant, one of the best-selling magazines in Wales. He was a preacher at the chapel in 1846 before going on to become minister of Capel yr Ynys. Prior to this, he worked at Ynyscedwyn Ironworks as a child. He wrote 30 books including Hanes Prydain Fawr, Bywyd a Theithiau Livingstone, Gweddiau Teuluaidd and Hanesion y Beibl.

He also translated 60 books from English into Welsh and was moderator of the C.M. General Assembly in 1883 and the South Wales Association in 1887. He also played a part in setting up the memorials to Methodist preachers Daniel Rowland, Thomas Charles, bishop Morgan and William Williams Pantycelyn.

Musician John Thomas Rees (1857-1949) also frequented the chapel as a member of the congregation.

He moved from Brecknockshire to Ystradgynlais to work as a miner and taught Daniel Protheroe. It is believed that during this time, he was a member of the congregation.

In 1850, the chapel built Capel Yr Ynys in Ynys Uchaf to serve as a place of worship and schoolroom. This was used for more than half a century before Moriah Chapel was built in Penrhos. Capel Yr Ynys is now the basis of Chapel House, a private residence.

More rebuilding took place in 1858 and it is the chapel that was built then that remains standing to this day – albeit with some additions. Coflein states that more work was done again in 1899.

One of the preachers who would ascend the pulpit of Yorath Chapel included William Leyshon Griffiths, who was well known for his poetry.

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He was born in Bryngroes Farm, Ystradgynlais, in 1863. At the age of 30, he ascended the pulpit of the chapel and preached the Gospel for 32 years.

The acclaimed poet won a number of Eisteddfod Chairs during his lifetime, before his death in 1925.

The chapel was lit by paraffin lamps up until 1911, with a story of how one day, Hywel Jones, son of deacon Tomas Jones, had one of the ‘standards’ supporting a paraffin lamp removed and his dad was outraged it had been moved. Tomas won the conflict between the father-and-son and the standard was replaced, showing how sacred those who worshipped in the chapel found the building to be, stating that nothing should be disturbed.

In 1954, a £3,139 porch was added to the chapel, which is the only adjustment from the original 1858 build. The current chapel is a simple round-headed and sub-classical style of the gable entry type.

In September 1956, a comprehensive celebration programme was created to celebrate the anniversary which included a special meeting for children held by minister Rev E Dewi Davies and the return of former minister Rev Glanville Davies.

An article from Beryl Cousins following the celebrations provided some insight into the chapel, saying it is a ‘chapel of contrasts.’ Highlighting the modern electric clock on the wall and the narrow and straight backed pews which were ‘as they were a century ago.’

She stated how there were large stained-glass windows above the pulpit, which were gifted to the chapel.

Ms Cousins tells a story about the centre piece on the ceiling as it was an almost new one at the time of her visit. The story goes: “The old one collapsed one night after a singing rehearsal. Someone among the practising choir gave the door a slam on the way out and the centre piece already rocking came tumbling down.”

She also speaks of a story of ‘dogged faith’ in the congregation. She told of how the congregation of the Yorath Chapel went down to one man. The old man would attend services on his own each week in Croesdy, a small thatched cottage in a garden in Cwmgeidd. It is believed that had he not retained this faith, there may not have been a 150th celebration of the chapel as there would not have been a chapel there.

Outside of the chapel is the cemetery, which is home to a number of graves including David Griffiths, a local man who was killed in action on September 8, 1918, in Arras, France, during the First World War. He was buried alongside his parents. There is also the grave of Benjamin Alexander, a 21-year-old who was also killed in action in 1940 at Dunkirk in the Second World War.